Møn
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
- Mön redirects here. Mön is also the Icelandic name for the Isle of Man, q.v.
Møn is a municipality (Danish, kommune) in Storstrøm County on the island of Møn in south Denmark.
The municipality includes the islands of Nyord, Bogø, Farø and Lindholm. Because Møn is an island, its two neighboring municipalities are both separated from Møn by water. It covers an area of 237 km², and has a total population of 11,676 (2005). The highest elevation on Møn is Aborrebjerget at 143 meters. The main town and the site of its municipal council is the town of Stege. Its mayor is Knud Larsen, a member of the Venstre (Liberal Party) political party.
By January 1, 2007 Møn municipality will cease to exist as the result of Kommunalreformen ("The Municipality Reform" of 2007). It will be merged with existing Langebæk, Præstø, and Vordingborg municipalities to form an enlarged Vordingborg municipality. This will create a municipality with an area of 615 km² and a total population of 46,307 (2005). The municipality will belong to the new Region Sjælland ("Zealand Region").
Contents |
[edit] Location
To the northwest is Langebæk municipality on the island of Zealand, which is separated from Møn (starting at the north end) by the waters of Hølen, a strait separating Langebæk from the island of Nyord, at the north end of the Møn municipality. Further south is Stege Bay (Stege Bugt), which is the main body of water separating the two municipalities. At the narrowest point between the two island, the waters become named Wolf Strait (Ulvsund), which is the primary strait separating Møn from Zealand.
To the southwest is Stubbekøbing municipality on the island of Falster, which is separated from Møn by the Green Strait (Grønsund), the strait which separates Møn from Falster, and Tolkedyb.
There are a number of islands in the waters off Møn, including the municipality's major islands of Nyord and Bogø, the minor island of Farø, as well as other islands belonging to neighboring Langebæk municipality (Langø, Tærø and Lilleø). The island of Lindholm in Stege Bay is state-owned, and is the location for the State Veterinary Institute for Virus Research (Statens Veterinære Institut for Virusforskning).
[edit] Transport Links
Møn is connected to Zealand at the town of Kalvehave by the Queen Alexandrine Bridge. The bridge opened for traffic on May 30, 1943, and is named after Queen Alexandrine, the Queen Consort of King Christian X. The bridge is 746 meters long.
At the south-western corner, Møn connects by bridge to the 5x7 km island of Bogø. From Bogø another bridge connects to the small island of Farø, which acts as the centre point for the Farø bridge carrying the motorway between Zealand and Falster. The north Farø bridge has a span of 1.5 km, the south bridge a span of 1.7 km with a 290 metres central span for shipping. The central span is supported by cables from two 95m pylons which raise the bridge 26 metres above sea level. The bridge was completed in 1984 and forms part of Euroroute E47 from Copenhagen (and Helsingborg) to Lübeck (and thence Hamburg and the south).
At the north-western corner of Møn is a narrow bridge connecting to the separate island of Nyord.
[edit] The town of Stege
Stege is situated approximately at the centre point of the island of Mon, at the mouth of Stege Nor, a lake which connects directly to the sea at the town. The mouth of the lake is now spanned by a bridge. Stege originally started as a small fishing village called Dybsbroen, on the coast just north of the eastern end of the bridge, along the street now known as Dybsbrostræde. The current name may derive from Stickae or Stike, which were wooden poles rammed into the sea inlet as a further defence against raiders. Population of the town is around 4000.
The town received status as a merchant town in 1268. As it grew, a fortress was constructed on the coast just south of the mouth of the inlet, in the 13th century. Construction costs for the towns fortress was paid by money from the fishing of herring, the town's most important source of capital.
Around 1430, a defensive wall was constructed enclosing the landward side of the town which was otherwise bounded by the sea to the north, and the lake to the south. The wall was built on top of a rampart, with a moat so that the town was entirely surrounded by water. Three gate towers were constructed, one at each of the major roads passing through the wall. Only the Mill Gate (Mølleporten) now survives, which was converted into a prison when the remainder of the wall was demolished around 1685. What remains is one of the best preserved fortresses in the Nordic countries,
The powerful Hansa state Lübeck attacked Stege in 1510 and 1522, but the town defended itself both times. In 1534 during the Count's Feud (Grevens fejde), the town could not fend off the enemy, and the fortress was destroyed. Herring fishery was also in decline, and as a result of the multiple disasters the population fell drastically.
Around 1800 merchant shipping blossomed in Stege with the deepening of the harbour, and the building of warehouses nearby. Fine merchant estates of the time can still be seen in the area.
The town today has a great deal of charm with many restaurants and cafes. The annual "Stege Festival" takes place every Tuesday in July, and the first Tuesday in August.
[edit] Attractions
Møn is known for its natural beauty, good beaches, fresco-decorated churches, Stone Age and Bronze Age passage graves and monuments, and Møns klint ("The White Cliffs of Møn"), the island's most popular attraction.
The cliffs, c.6 km long and up to 128 meter tall, are Denmark's highest, and support a unique set of natural habitats. Access to the narrow beach is via a flight of 500 steps from the parking area set within the beech forest behind the cliffs. A geological museum is under construction, due for completion 2007. The combination of chalk in the subsoil with a dry local climate, and its agricultural use consisting primarily of cattle grazing, has created some of Denmark's richest meadowlands. The chalk was transported to Møn during the fourth, and so far last, major ice age of Denmark.
Another attraction close to the cliffs is Liselund, the romantic summer residence erected in the 1790s by French nobleman Antoine de Bosc de la Calmette for his wife, Lise. The miniature palace and grounds were designed by Andreas Kirkerup, one of the times foremost landscape architects. A larger house was constructed in the park in 1887 by Baron Fritz Rosenkrantz, which is now a hotel. The park is open to the public and includes the original thatched castle, Swiss cottage, Chinese tea house and Norwegian log cabin. Calmette was also responsible for the park at Marienborg.
At the north-western corner of Møn is a narrow bridge connecting to the separate island of Nyord. The small village on the island has a number of original cottages and farm houses. Nyord has an important habitat area for geese, ducks and other wading birds, and a bird watching tower for the use of visitors, as well as a small harbour.
At the south-western corner, Møn connects by bridge to the 5x7 km island of Bogø. The island has a preserved windmill, and summer ferry to Stubbekøbing.
Møn has a number of interesting churches decorated with frescos. Fanefjord Kirke dates back to the 14th century, and has a set of famous frescoes painted in 1450 by the Elmelunde master. Elmelunde Kirke is the oldest church on Møn, with parts dating from the start of the 12th century. Keldby Kirke has a unique altarpiece as well as frescoes.
There is a 5000 year old round burial barrow at Sømarke, and others at Jættestue and jordehøj. Kong Asgers Høj at Sprove is the largest gallery grave in Denmark, more than 4,000 years old. It has been fully excavated and can be vsited inside. There is another round barrow at nearby Rundysse, and a further 9 metre long double passage gallery grave at Klekkende Høj from the neolithic age c.2500 years old. The largest barrow on Møn is a 100m by 10m barrow near Fanefjord church, which according to legend is the resting place of Chief Grønjæger and his wife Queen Fane, after whom Fanefjord and Grønsund were named. Barrows at Raby and Busemarke.
There is a jewellery museum at Damme, and an open-air museum of life on Møn as it was 100 years ago.
[edit] History
- See also: History of Denmark
[edit] Early settlements
There is evidence that people lived in Denmark more than 100,000 years ago, but the area became covered in ice during the last Ice age. People returned to Møn about 10,000 years ago during the Upper Paleolithic era. At that time the island was part of mainland Europe.
During the Mesolithic era (6800-3900 BC) there is evidence from findings of small flint and bone tools that inhabitants of the island lived by hunting and fishing. The landscape was largely wooded, with hazel and increasing oak and alder trees. From around 5400 BC reforestation was complete, forming an inaccessible forest and forcing out the last of the big animals such as aurochs and moose. Human habitations have been found along the eastern coast.
The Neolithic era, (3900-1700 BC) saw the start of cattle farming spreading inland from the coastal settlements. Flint axes were used, and trading occurred in flint, gold, copper and bronze. This era saw the start of barrow building for the dead, and settlements have been found at Rødkilde. Barrows became larger, longer and contained multiple burials. More than 100 large graves have been found on Møn. The period from 2400-1700 is known as Doltktiden, after the flint daggers which became common at that time. Bronze was also in use, imported from further south.
Around 2000 BC a new wave of people arrived on Møn, the Stridsøksekulturen (the battle axe people). They brought with them goats, sheep and horses, and their trademark stone battleaxes. They used simpler graves with small round mounds.
Bronze became more common, hence the period 1700-500 BC became the Bronze Age and flint ceased to be used for tools. Large round mounds were used for burial, and more than 200 of these have been found on Møn. Each mound covered a single grave, containing a coffin made from a single split and hollowed oak tree. From 1000-500BC graves became smaller and cremation began to be practiced. Graves were encircled by a ring of stones. Fewer items were buried with the dead, as a result of changes in society which made grave robbing more likely.
From 500 BC iron began to be used in the Pre-Roman Iron Age. The climate became cooler and wetter, causing difficulties for agriculture. Few remains have been found from the period 500-0 BC, but Celtic culture became an influence.
The Roman Empire stopped short of Denmark, but from 0-400 AD in the Roman Iron Age there is evidence of imported Roman goods in silver, bronze and gold. Little has been found from the post- Roman Germanic Iron Age until about 800AD. Two treasure hoards have been found on Møn from the Viking Age 800-1050.
[edit] Unification of Denmark
The last recorded independent ruler of the island of Møn was Hemming, son of Sigvard Snogøje (Sigvard Snake-eye) in the early 800’s, who carried out raids on other territories. Møn itself was subject to raids, particularly Vendians from Rugen and Femern.
From 900-1000 AD forests were steadily cleared and there was a profitable trade in corn with Baltic countries. The relative wealth and large population of the island is indicated by the large number of churches built at that time. However, this wealth increased the likelihood of Vendian raids. This in turn led to the deliberate retention of some coastal forest areas as protection against raiders.
The castle of Stegeborg was begun around 1220 in timber, then rebuilt in brick by 1245, despite this being a relatively peaceful period. On the death of King Valdemar II in 1241, a dispute arose over the succession, which let to the island being raided by Lubecks who took the part of one of the claimants, Knud Duke of Blekinge who was imprisoned by his brother Erik Plovpenning (king 1241-1250) in Stegeborg. The Lubecks conquered Copenhagen, then Stege to release the Duke. These raids continued intermittently into the 16th century. The succession wars also led to further raids in 1260 when the island was seized by Prince Järmer of Rugen. The Germans gained rights to establish a trading outpost at Brøndhøj. A Norwegian, Alf Ellingsen also saw advantage from the island, defeating a defending fleet of 30 vessels to raid Møn and other islands during the reign of Erik Glipping (1259-1286). Glipping granted Stege a town charter, granting it sole rights to trade and tax certain commodities, which existed until 1857.
From the middle of the 12th to the mid-17th century Møn became a Danish crown property and was managed by a feudal lord. It’s relative importance meant that appointments were made from the ranks of highest Danish nobility. The lord had responsibility for maintaining order and collecting taxes, hosting visits from royalty and important guests, and judging legal disputes. As a royal possession, the island was used as surety against loans made to the crown, and passed into various hands while debts remained unpaid. This gave the pledge holders the right to extract whatever revenue they could from the island while it remained pledged as security. Prince Witslav of Rugen held the island for 20 years from 1286, resulting in rebellions against him and further Norwegian raids
[edit] Herring fisheries, prosperity and decline
The island and Stege in particular prospered in the 14th century from the results of herring fishing, reaching the height of its wealth around 1500. It adopted a coat of arms including three herrings, and the town defences were strengthened. Around 1430 a rampart, wall and moat were created around the town by Erik of pomerania. Three towers were created at each of the main approach roads, of which only Møllerporten still partly survives. However the defences were no defence against fire, which at one point destroyed the greater part of the town, or against the plague.
In 1447 King Cristopher of Bayern granted the town rights to trade outside Møn, within the remainder of Denmark. In 1450 Christian I of Denmark forbade farmers to trade goods outside of Denmark, with the direct result that they sailed directly to Germany to sell their goods, bypassing the town of Stege, which was starved of goods and revenue. In 1476 the town received confirmation of its historic rights, and in 1481 a further law forbade foreigners trading with farmers on Møn. This was reaffirmed by king Hans in 1507.
In 1510 The Lubecks attacked Møn in retaliation for the trade sanctions, failing to take Stege but destroying the islands second largest town, Borre. The trade war continued, and in 1524 Frederick I again felt the need to repeat the ban on trade on Møn anywhere except in the town of Stege. In 1533 Frederick died, leading again to a dispute over the crown. The townspeople sided with the previously deposed Christian II, but the castle was in the hands of Christian III. As a result the castle was taken by deceit by townspeople and blown up. The four leaders were hanged, but the castle was not rebuilt. In 1538 Christian III once again repeated the trade ban, as the citizens of Stege still could not obtain sufficient food for the town.
At the start of the 16th century around 2000 people lived in Stege. However, the herring fisheries were in decline and the town was taxed heavily to pay for continuing wars. Farmers began to sell goods to the harbour at Grønsund, and the island was again pledged against a debt. By 1582 Frederick II was obliged to cut taxes on the town and waive unpaid back taxes, as the town was effectively bankrupt. In 1583, trade with germany was again banned. Christian IV granted land outside Stege to the town so that they might grow food for themselves. In 1627 more land was granted.
The death of Christian IV in 1648 meant the end of the 30-year war, but his successor Frederick III commenced war against Sweden. Copenhagen was occupied and Swedes sought to invade Møn by walking across the ice from Zealand. This was prevented by the islanders, who maintained a 3 mile long opening in the ice to stop the invasion force. However, in May 1659, 3000 swedes invaded from the island of Bogø against a force of 500 defenders. Stege was occupied, the town hall and 300 farms destroyed, the island looted and the harvest lost. At the end of the war in 1660 the island population was reduced to 670.
Frederick III introduced direct rule, replacing feudal regions with counties and attempted to restore the economy. However in 1664 Møn was again pledged against loans, this time to a dutchman Gabriel Marselis. In 1684 the pledge was redeemed, at which time Stege was half in ruins, almost all the forests had been cut down and many farms had been abandoned. In 1685 4 batallions of cavalry were sent to the island and stationed at Marienborg. To build barracks at Marienborg, their commander Colonel Von Plessen demolished damaged buildings in Stege to re-use their stone, including the town wall and two of the gate towers. The third was converted into a prison. In 1696 the further depradation of the island was discovered by the authorities, and Plessen was himself imprisoned. All taxes on the island were cancelled for 2 years.
[edit] Restored Fortunes
In 1703 an attempt was made to found a navigation school in Stege. This failed, but generally the Danish economy was beginning to recover from the long period of wars. In 1769 crown property on Møn was sold which allowed farmers to buy their own land and wealthy individuals to create estates and begin to settle on the island. In 1774 a major fire destroyed 112 properties in the northern part of Stege, but by 1782 there were 4 distilleries in the town, and by 1807, 18.
In 1733 Christian VI introduced a law compelling peasants to remain on the estate where they were born until the age of 36. This was to provide a fixed work force, but also aid military conscription. The law was abolished in 1788 by the then regent, later to become Frederick VI
By 1789, the population of Stege had climbed to 791 with 7000 people altogether. In 1797, Antione de Calmette was placed in charge of the county, and was, for once, a respected leader.
In 1857 the town trade monopoly was finally abolished.
At the start of the 1900s there lived ca. 14,000 people on the island. This figure has fallen since then, but has stabilised in the 1970s.
[edit] External links
- Municipality's official website
- The new Vordingborg municipality's official website (Danish only)
- Møn tourism information (Danish only)
- Liselund Palace
- Maibritt Levinsen's extensive site on Møn
[edit] References
- Municipal statistics: NetBorger Kommunefakta, delivered from KMD aka Kommunedata (Municipal Data)
- Municipal mergers and neighbors: http://kommune.eniro.dk/region/media/nyekommuner.shtml Eniro new municipalities map]
- History of Møn: [1]
Municipalities in Storstrøm County | |
---|---|
Fakse | Fladså | Holeby | Holmegaard | Højreby | Langebæk | Maribo | Møn | Nakskov | Nykøbing Falster | Nysted | Næstved | Nørre Alslev | Præstø | Ravnsborg | Rudbjerg | Rødby | Rønnede | Sakskøbing | Stevns | Stubbekøbing | Suså | Sydfalster | Vordingborg |