Cheesesteak
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The cheesesteak, known outside the Philadelphia, Pennsylvania area as the Philadelphia cheesesteak, Philly cheesesteak, or steak and cheese is a sandwich principally of sliced pieces of steak and one of three types of cheese.
The cheesesteak is a comfort food for the natives of the Philadelphia region. It was invented in the city in 1930 and is considered to be a city icon along with other foods such as Tastykake, water ice and the Philadelphia soft pretzel.
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[edit] History
The invention of the cheesesteak was claimed by Philadelphian Pat Olivieri who combined chopped-up steak and put it in a bun. Another source lists him as a co-creator with his brother Harry Olivieri. [2] They began selling the new concoctions at their hot dog stand near south Philadelphia's Italian Market. This restaurant still operates today as Pat's King of Steaks (v.i.).
Pat's website calls the preparation a "steak sandwich" (not a "cheesesteak") and says that "as the years passed, both employees and customers alike demanded change ... cheese was added."[1] Joe Vento of Geno's(v.i.) claims that he was the first to add cheese.[2]
In 1952 they added Cheese Whiz to their sandwich ingredients and not long after that their sandwich and restaurant became famous nationwide. The walls of their restaurant are lined with photographs of celebrities who ate there, including President Bill Clinton, Jimmy Durante, Joey Bishop, Rodney Dangerfield, Connie Stevens, Henry Winkler, the Bee Gees and Lou Rawls.
[edit] Ingredients and preparation
Steak is sliced into either thin or thick pieces and placed on a lightly oiled griddle. Locations that sell cheesesteaks cooked with thin slices of steak will grill the steak in a large pile, chopping and flipping the steak with a large metal spatula until cooked to a light brown. The thick pieces of steak, due to their need to be cooked more thoroughly, will be set in a single layer on the grill and flipped until brown. The meat is then transferred to a long roll, typically a 6-inch (15 cm) or 12-inch (30 cm) loaf of Italian bread. The bread is sliced lengthwise to form a cradle, similar to a hot dog bun. Along the inner sides of the sliced roll one of three cheeses is placed. The cheese is either melted beforehand by a warmer or is melted by the heat of the freshly cooked steak.
In the Philadelphia area, cheesesteaks are often made with rolls from the Philadelphia-based Amoroso's Baking Company, commonly known as Amoroso Rolls. (Pat's rolls are made by the Vilotti-Pisanelli bakery.[3]) Locals believe there is something about "Schuylkill Punch", the nickname for Philadelphia's drinking water, that, by its alkalinity, makes the rolls distinctively flaky and airy. In late 2005 Pat's Steaks changed their rolls from Amoroso to Liscio's Bakery, of Glassboro, New Jersey.
A cheesesteak may include other optional ingredients such as grilled onions, sautéed green peppers, mayonnaise, and mushrooms. Some menus include hot sauce, ketchup, or pizza sauce (a Pizza Steak, often with mozzarella as the cheese). A popular variation is the chicken cheesesteak, which uses thinly sliced chicken, also sautéed on a griddle.
[edit] Cheese
American cheese, provolone, and Cheez Whiz are the three major cheeses and are available for steaks at most places. Swiss and cheddar are available at a few locations, and any place that also sells pizza will substitute mozzarella. A cheesesteak is even available without cheese and is simply called a steak sandwich.
[edit] Cheez Whiz
Cheez Whiz, first marketed in 1952, was not yet available for the original 1930 version, but it has come to achieve some popularity. A common order is "Whiz, wit", meaning a cheesesteak with Cheez Whiz and fried onions. "Wit" is an approximation of the South Philadelphian pronunciation of "with," which is how the word is actually spelled on some menus.
A 1986 New York Times article called Cheez Whiz "the sine qua non of cheesesteak connoisseurs."[4] In a 1985 interview, Frank Olivieri (Pat Olivieri's nephew) said that he uses "the processed cheese spread familiar to millions of parents who prize speed and ease in fixing the children's lunch for the same reason, because it is fast."[5] He went on to say that "American cheese takes longer to melt" and made clear his preference for Cheez Whiz over other unnamed, fast-melting cheese spreads.
A recipe published by Pat's King of Steaks says, with regard to cheese, "We recommend Cheez Whiz®; American or Provolone works fine."[6] The proprietor of Geno's considers provolone or American to be authentic, but a food writer notes the "ascendancy of Whiz," which is "nearly synonymous with cheesesteak" and observes that "there isn't a decent steak place in Philadelphia that doesn't offer it, including Geno's."[3] An article in Fortune says that after Pat's introduced it, Cheese Whiz became "the topping of choice."[2]
[edit] American
American cheese, with its mild flavor and medium consistency, is another favorite on cheesesteaks. Some places pre-melt the American cheese to achieve a Cheez Whiz-like consistency, while others just put freshly cut slices under the meat, letting it slightly melt under the heat.
[edit] Provolone
Provolone of the mild, unaged variety is also almost universally offered. However, a Los Angeles reporter claimed that "provolone is the cheesesteak cheese, preferably an extra-sharp provolone with a distinctly savage bite. A cheesesteak is supposed to hurt, and it takes more than those fried dry Japanese chilies that Pat’s offers as a condiment.... In Philadelphia, I’ve heard, Cheez Whiz is often considered a tourist affectation, the kind of thing ordered by a person more concerned with what people might think of him than with what he might be putting into his mouth."[7]
[edit] Others
Other varieties of cheese may be offered—a 1986 New York Times article mentioned a Philadelphia establishment that serves "mesquite-grilled cheese steak with Jarlsberg cheese"—but traditionalists scorn such modes of preparation. A few establishments have begun offering the new low-fat cheeses as health-conscious alternatives.
A steak sandwich topped with pizza sauce and sliced or crumbled mozzarella constitutes a pizza steak, which is often placed briefly in a pizza oven or under a broiler to melt and lightly brown the cheese. Sometimes pepperoni is added.
Some vendors offer plain cheddar as well, though these sandwiches are sometimes called "Cheesy Beef" sandwiches rather than "cheesesteaks."
[edit] Ordering etiquette
In some shops in Philadelphia that sell primarily cheesesteaks, there is defined protocol for ordering a cheesesteak, consisting of the desired cheese and whether fried onions will ("wit") or will not ("witout") be added. For example, "I'd like a provolone wit," is an order for a cheesesteak with provolone cheese and fried onions on top.[8] Orders for additional toppings, such as sautéed mushrooms or peppers, are usually added at the end, e.g. "I'd like an American witout and peppers."
A few Philadelphia-area shops will even refuse or delay service to customers who order "incorrectly." Shops that sell cheesesteaks in addition to other items, such as pizza shops, lunch trucks or delis, or those outside of the Philadelphia area, usually do not follow this etiquette.
[edit] Cheesy politics
In the 2004 presidential campaign, candidate John Kerry, on a visit to Pat's Steaks in South Philadelphia, committed the faux pas of ordering a cheesesteak with Swiss cheese. According to the Philadelphia Daily News, "reporters snickered," because "in Philadelphia, ordering Swiss on a cheesesteak is like rooting for Dallas at an Eagles game. It isn't just politically incorrect; it could get you a poke in the nose."[9] George W Bush, contrarily, ordered “Whiz wit” like a local.[10]
In 2005, Massachusetts Governor Mitt Romney turned up his nose at a cheesesteak wagered by Pennsylvania Governor Ed Rendell in the traditional pre-Super Bowl bet between leaders of the states represented in the game. Rendell later told reporters, "He said the cheesesteak had no nutritional value." [11]
[edit] Famous locations
Among the many Philadelphia cheesesteak eateries, Pat's and Geno's Steaks are the best known. The famous rivals are located across the street from each other on 9th Street and Passyunk Avenue in South Philadelphia.
- The hub of the cheesesteak universe is a South Philadelphia triangle where Pat's King of Steaks (est. 1930), birthplace of the cheesesteak, stands in an eternal face-off with across-the-street rival Geno's Steaks (est. 1966).[3]
According to a 2003 article in Fortune, the rival proprietors, Joey Vento and Frank Olivieri, hate each other:
- Vento uses words like "arrogant" and "idiot" to describe his opponent, and dismisses Pat's steaks. (So why do so many people eat them? "You can acquire a taste for bad food," he says.) Olivieri, who went to a Quaker high school, refuses to be drawn into a shouting match. "I don't even call him a competitor," he sniffs.[2]
Some Philadelphians proclaim allegiance to a particular steak shop as the maker of the best cheesesteak in the world, based on the quality of the ingredients, the attention given to the preparation, and other ethereal reasons only tangentially related to the sandwich itself. Some native Philadelphians consider Pat's and Geno's "tourist steaks," where most "virgin" cheesesteak eaters have their first, memorable cheesesteak experience. There is much lively debate in Philadelphia over what makes one establishment's cheesesteak better than another's. Street vendors also prepare and sell cheesesteaks from trucks and carts in and around the city, especially on the larger college campuses.
Both Pat's and Geno's are open 24 hours a day. The establishments can frequently be seen packed with long lines of hungry people, even during the late hours of the night especially following local sports events, or after Philadelphia bars close at 2:00am.
For other famous cheesesteak restaurants, see "Best of Philly" winners below. As Patti Labelle notes, "when we were growing up, Llona and I always went to the same little shop to get ours—this twenty-four-hour hole-in-the-wall that made the best ones in Philly."[12]
[edit] Best of Philly award winners
This is a list of establishments in Philadelphia that have won Best of Philly awards for cheesesteak.
- Tony Luke's: 2005[13]
- Chick's Deli: 2003[14]
- Chink's: 2002[15]
- Lorenzo's: 2002[16]
- Pat's Steaks: 2002[17], 2001[18]
- Geno's Steaks: 2000[19]
- Jim's Steaks: 1997[20]
[edit] Cheesesteaks elsewhere
In other parts of North America, many sandwich shops offer their own versions of the cheesesteak, and some are even dedicated to serving only cheesesteaks. Regionally, the name may vary; in parts of New England, for example, the sandwich is called a "steak and cheese".
Some native Philadelphians maintain that places outside the immediate area are not able to produce an authentic Philadelphia cheesesteak. For example, the meat is often prepared incorrectly (sliced from ground or flaked beef, rather than whole or molded), or the traditional toppings are not offered.[21]
Another missing element in most cheesesteaks outside Philadelphia is the use of Amoroso's rolls. Many Philadelphians who have eaten cheesesteaks in other cities often cite the lower quality of the roll as a key missing element. Amoroso's rolls are almost exclusively used in Philadelphia (with Pat's being an exception).[3]
There are numerous places to get authentic cheesesteak in Los Angeles. The Cheesesteak Factory chain introduced Angelenos to the cheesesteak, and they (along with other steak shops in L.A. such as Markie D's in Culver City and in Venice Beach) have been regarded by travelers as the closest to a cheesesteak made in Philadelphia. Residents in Orange County enjoy cheesesteaks at Philly's Best, which serves the sandwich on Amorosa rolls along with other favorites like french fries with Whiz.
San Diego's Gotham City Pizza has Amoroso's Rolls shipped in from Philadelphia. They are favorites in the area, and are especially popular with Philadelphia natives in the city.
Denver-based Taste of Philly also stocks the Amoroso's Roll and is a favorite of many former Philadelphians.[22]
Northern California is served by the The Cheese Steak Shop which uses Amoroso's Rolls.
PhillyPhlava of Tampa Fl is another one of the few resturants serving "philly cheese steaks" that make them on the signature Amoroso's Rolls.
[edit] See also
[edit] References
- ^ The History of Pat's King of Steaks. Pat's King of Steaks. Retrieved on 2006-06-09.
- ^ a b c David Whitford (2003-06-01). Sandwich Superheroes Philadelphia's cheese-steak kings have fought for more than 30 years. Now they can't imagine life without each other.. Fortune: Small Business. Retrieved on 2006-06-09.
- ^ a b c d John Hodgman (2002). Philly Mignon. Men's Journal. Retrieved on 2006-06-03. Pat's: uses Vilotti-Pisanelli rolls, proprietor advocates Whiz, uses thin-sliced rib-eye "cow meat" [sic]. Geno's: uses Amoroso rolls, proprietor advocates American or provolone, uses rib-eye steer. In general, "the real controversy is chopped versus nonchopped." Re bread, quotes Pat's proprietor: "There's something about the bread," says Junior. "It's the altitude and the humidity of this area, and the dirty water from the Schuylkill River."
- ^ The New York Times, May 21, 1986, p. C6 "The Cheese Steak: An Original"
- ^ The New York Times, November 16, 1985, p. 10: "About Philadelphia: Where Cheesesteaks are King, One Family Has Assumed the Crown"
- ^ The Original Pat's King of Steaks Philadelphia Cheese Steak recipe. patskingofsteaks.com. Retrieved on May 22, 2006.
- ^ Jonathan Gold, 2004, September 3-9 issue of LA Weekly: Ask Mr. Gold Detailed analysis of Bush and Kerry's cheesesteak preferences and a strong opinion on provolone.
- ^ I.M. Hungry, "How to order a steak", retrieved on 12 August 2006.
- ^ Philadelphia Daily News story on the Kerry contretemps
- ^ [1] Economist "Whiz wit?" Article
- ^ Mass. Governor Disrespects The Cheesesteak. NBC10 (2005). Retrieved on May 22, 2006.
- ^ LaBelle, Patti (2003). {{{title}}}. Gotham. ISBN 1-59240-004-3. p. 25
- ^ Best of Philly 2005; Cheesesteaks; Philadelphia
- ^ Best of Philly 2003
- ^ Best of Philly 2002
- ^ Best of Philly 2002
- ^ Best of Philly 2002
- ^ Best of Philly 2001
- ^ Best of Philly 2000
- ^ Best of Philly 1997
- ^ Fischer, John. "The Perfect Philly Cheesesteak". philadelphia.about.com. Retrieved on 2006-04-27.
- ^ "Taste of Philly - Home of the Real Philly Cheesesteak". www.tasteofphilly.biz. Retrieved on 2006-08-10.
[edit] External links
- Let's Get a Cheesesteak - video blog from Jim's Steaks
- Pat's King of Steaks website
- An opinion on the relative merits of Pat's and Geno's
- Jim's Steaks website *[http://www.genosteaks.com Geno's Steaks Website
- The History of Geno's Steaks
- HollyEats.com - Many Philadelphian cheesesteak shops are rated and described
- A well-travelled Philadelphian tries to educate the rest of the world
- Amoroso Baking Company
