聖山

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聖山（希腊语: -{Όρος Άθως}-）（阿蘇斯神權共和國）是位於希臘東北部馬其頓省的东正教聖地區域，由亞陀斯山和半岛組成。此地區因受希臘政府承認為宗教聖地，所以是完全自治的區域，有自己的律法和特殊簽證，其全稱中沒有“州(Nomós)”字樣。1988年列入世界遺產。由於聖山是比較宗教性的講法，故有稱其為亞陀斯半島，或阿蘇斯神權共和國。

目录 1 地理 2 特色 3 历史 4 Present-day administration 5 语言 6 邮票 7 艺术宝藏 8 文献 9 20个自治修道院 10 外部聯結

[编辑] 地理

整個亞陀斯半島的面積約390平方公里。從地圖上看來，就像是Chialkidiki半島最東方，朝愛琴海伸出有60公里的一個腿型，寬度大約是7到12公里，地形相當陡峭，樹林密布，山徑的傾斜度都很高。亞陀斯山的海拔約2033公尺。

亞陀斯半島末端的海域危險性可能很高，前483年，波斯帝國的國王澤克西斯一世曾開鑿通道以便讓他的入侵艦隊能通過這個地峽。

[编辑] 特色

目前在亞陀斯半島上拥有20座东正教的修道院。这里只允许18岁以上的男性东正教徒居住。目前有大約1400名僧侶，有些僧侶是獨自修行，並非住在修道院中。此外还有帮助修士的看守，和要求住在半岛的其他人，住在首府Karyes。

[编辑] 历史

^[1]

on her way from Joppa to Cyprus to visit Lazarus. When the ship was blown off course to then pagan Athos it was forced to drop anchor near the port of Klement, close to the present monastery of Iviron. The Virgin walked ashore and, overwhelmed by the wonderful and wild natural beauty of the mountain, she blessed it and asked her Son for it to be her garden. A voice was heard; "let this place be your inheritance and your garden, a paradise and a haven of salvation for those seeking to be saved". Since that moment the mountain was consecrated as the garden of the Mother of God and was out of bounds to all other women.

根據傳說，聖母瑪利亞和使徒约翰在乘船從塞浦路斯到拉撒路（Lazarus）的途中，因天候不好，漂流到亞陀斯半島上，於是聖母瑪利亞將此地定為神聖區域，宣告女性和小孩永遠不得踏入這裡，於是就有「聖山」之名的由來。

历史上对古代圣山的记载很少。我们只知道公元4世纪修士们已经来到这里，很可能是更早的3世纪。During 康斯坦丁大帝's reign (324-337) both Christians and pagans were living there. During Julian the Apostate (Ιουλιανός o Παραβάτης, 361-363)圣山的教堂被摧毁，基督徒藏身在树林中 and inaccessible places. Later, during Theodosius I the Great's reign (Θεοδοσιος ο Μεγας, 383-395) the pagan temples were destroyed. The lexicographer Esychios the Alexandrian (Ησύχιος ο Αλεξανδρεύς) states that on the 5th century there was still a temple and a statue of "Zeus Athonite"。伊斯兰教征服埃及 (7世纪)后，许多修士从埃及沙漠 tried to find another calm place and some of them came and were established on Athos 半岛。An ancient document states that monks "...built huts of small wood and with roof of straw (...) and by collecting fruits from the wild trees were offering to themselves improvise meals..."

Theophanes the Confessor (Θεοφάνης ο Ομολογητής, end of 8th century) and George Kedrinos (Γεώργιος Κεδρηνός, 11th century) wrote that the eruption of Thera volcano on 726 was visible from 圣山, proving that on that time there were inhabitants on it. Historian Genesios (Γενεσιος) recorded that at the 7th Ecumenical Synod of Nicaea (843) monks from Athos were participating. Around 860 the famous monk Efthymios the Young (Ευθυμιος ο Νεος)来到 Athos and a number of monk-huts ("skiti of Saint Basil") are created around his place, possibly near Krya Nera. During the reign of 皇帝Basil I the "Macedonian" (Βασίλειος Α' ο Μακεδόνας),前克里特大主教 (and later of Thessaloniki) Basil the Confessor (Βασίλειος ο Ομολογητής)建造了一个小修道院 at the place of the modern harbour ("arsanas") of Chelandariou Monastery. Soon after this, a document of 883 states that Ioannis Kolovos (Ιωαννης Κολοβος) built a monastery at Megali Vigla. On a chrysobull of emperor Basil I, dated 885,圣山 is proclaimed a place of monks, and no laymen or farmers or cattle-breaders are allowed to be settled there. The next year, in a royal edict of emperor Leo VI the Wise we read about the "...so called ancient seat of the council of gerondas (council of elders)...", meaning that there was already a kind of monks' administration and that it was already "ancient". In 887 some monks expostulate to 皇帝 Leo the Wise as the monastery of Kolovos is growing more and more and they loose their peace. In 908 the existence of a "First" monk is documented, who is the "head" of the monastic community. On 943 the borders of the monastic state was precisely mapped while we know that Karies (or Karyes, Καρυές) is already the capital town and seat of the administration and has the name "Megali Mesi Lavra" (Big Central Assembly). In 956 a decree offered to the Xiropotamou monastery land of about 1/4 of an acre (2 500 m²),这意味着这座修道院已经很大了。

958年，修士Athanasios the Athonite (Άγιος Αθανάσιος ο Αθωνίτης)到达圣山。962年，建造中心大教堂 of the "Protaton" in Karies。次年，得到朋友的支持，皇帝Nicephorus Phocas, the monastery of Great Lavra was founded, still 最大 most prominent of 20个修道院 existing today. It enjoyed the protection of 拜占庭帝国皇帝 during the following centuries and its wealth and possessions grew considerably。The Fourth Crusade in 13世纪 brought new 天主教 overlords which forced the monks to complain and ask for the intervention of Pope Innocent III, until the restoration of 拜占庭帝国 came. It was raided by Catalan mercenaries in 14世纪, a century that also saw the theological conflict over hesychasm practised on Mount Athos and defended by Gregory Palamas.

963年，修士Athanasios在亞陀斯半島正式興建了大勞拉修道院（the monastery of Great Lavra）。今日大勞拉修道院依然是亞陀斯半島20間修道院中最大的一所。在10世紀時，享有拜占庭帝國的保護。而且迅速的累積了許多財富。

拜占庭帝国 collapsed in 15世纪，1430年，新成立的伊斯兰教奥斯曼帝国 took over 圣山。他们向修道院征收重税 for the most part left them alone.在16世纪，修士的人数和财富衰减，but were revitalised around 19世纪 by the donations and new arrivals from other 东正教国家，诸如俄罗斯、保加利亚, 罗马尼亚和塞尔维亚 and 每个国家 came to exert its influence on individual 修道院。1912, during First Balkan War, the Ottomans were forced out by the Greek Navy, and after a brief conflict between 希腊和俄国 over sovereignty,第一次世界大战后，半岛正式属于希腊 sovereignty。

圣山自治区域，根据 Decree passed by the Holy Community on the 3rd October 1913 and 根据国际条约伦敦条约 (1913), 布加勒斯特条约 (1913), Neilly条约 (1919), Sèvres条约 (1920)和洛桑条约 (1923), is considered 希腊的一部分。 Later a "Special Double Assembly" of the Holy Community in Karyes passed the "Constitutional Map" of圣山, which was ratified by the Greek Parliament. This regime originates from the "self-ruled monastic state" as stated on a chrysobull parchment signed and sealed by 拜占庭皇帝Ioannis Tsimiskis in 972. This important document is preserved in the House of the Holy Administration in Karyes。圣山的独立 was later granted again by 皇帝Alexios Komninos in 1095。根据希腊的 constitution，圣山(the "Monastic State of Aghion Oros") is politically self-governed and consists of 20 main 修道院(which constitute the Holy Community to administer the territory) and the capital city and 行政中心Karyes,还拥有 a governor as the representative of 希腊state。The status of 圣山 was expressly described and ratified upon admission of 希腊 to 欧盟 (then the European Community).

圣山的修道院 have a history of opposing ecumenism, or movements towards reconciliation between 君士坦丁堡正教会和罗马天主教. The Esphigmenou monastery is particularly outspoken in this respect, having raised black flags to protest against the meeting of Patriarch Athenagoras I of Constantinople and Pope Paul VI in 1972. Esphigmenou was subsequently expelled from the representative bodies of the Athonite Community. The conflict escalated in 2002 with Patriarch Bartholomew I of Constantinople declaring the monks of Esphigmenou an illegal brotherhood and ordering their eviction; the monks refused to be evicted and were blockaded. Since October 2005,希腊政府 forces have tightened the siege of 修道院, blocking supplies and communication.

[编辑] Present-day administration

圣山由"Holy Community" (Iera Kinotita)治理 which consists of the representatives of 20 Holy Monasteries, having as executive committee the four-membered "Holy Administration" (Iera Epistassia), with the "First" (Protos) being the head of it. Civil authorities are represented by the Civil Governor, appointed by the Greek Ministry of Foreign Affairs, whose main duty is to supervise the function of the institutions and the public order. Spiritually, Mount Athos comes under the direct jurisdiction of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople.

20个修道院中的每一个 - which today all follow the coenobitic system - the administration is in the hands of the "Abbot" (Igoumenos) who is elected by the brotherhood for life. He is the lord and spiritual father of 修道院. The Convention of the brotherhood is the legislative body. All the other establishments (cloisters, cells, huts, retreats, hermitages) are dependencies of some of 这20个修道院 and are assigned to the monks by a document called "homologo".

Beyond the 修道院 there are 12 "sketae", smaller communities of monks, as well as many (solitary) hermitages throughout the peninsula. All persons leading a monastic life thereon acquire 希腊 citizenship without further formalities, upon admission as novices or monks. Visits to the 半岛 are possible for laymen, but they need special permission.

为了 reduce sexual temptation,彻底妇女 are completely barred from 半岛, a fact which has earned a certain amount of fame;甚至禁止雌性动物 domestic (with the exception, some say, of cats, as well as chickens which lay eggs that provide 新鲜鸡蛋 yolk needed for the paint used in iconography)。The interdiction is punished by imprisonment from two to one year. The EU parliament has urged Greece twice to change this rule, but the demand was rejected. However, during 希腊内战期间，Athos 确实收容了包括妇女和女孩的难民。[1] Although there was an incident in 1930's regarding Aliki Diplarakou, the first 希腊人 beauty pageant contestant to win the Miss Europe title, who shocked the world when she dressed up as a man and sneaked into 圣山. Her escapade was featured in a July 13, 1953 Time's article [2] titled The Climax of Sin, an article in which talked about the transformation of a woman's role through out history.

Traditional hospitality is the most touching and perhaps, today, the hardest task of the monks, because of the increasing number of pilgrims in recent years. The hospitality demand often exceeds the honest intention of the monks and the capabilities of a monastery. So it is better, before starting for a specific monastery, to confirm by a phone-call that the monastery is in a position to accommodate you. The visitor resides in the guesthouse (archondariki), and has to respect and follow the monastery's program: praying (services in church or in private), common dining, working (according to the duties of each monk) and rest. If you are on a special diet or fasting or if you want to receive the holy communion (for Orthodox Christians only) please let the guest-master (archondaris) know it in time. During religious celebrations there are usually long vigils and the entire program of the day is radically reshaped. You should ask on arrival about the day (and night) schedule. The gate of the monasteries closes by sunset and opens again by sunrise.

Monastic life in the "cells" is totally different. Some of them resemble a tidy farmhouse, others are poor huts, others have the gentility of Byzantine tradition or of Russian architecture of the past century. The monk of a cell, having to take care of every life's worry, makes up his program by himself. For the visitor, it is worth experiencing also this side of monastic life, but most of the cells have very little or not at all capacity for hospitality.

There are two types of "cloisters" ("sketae"): the coenobitic skiti and the idiorythmic skiti. The first, both in 建筑和生活方式， follows the typical model of a monastery. In contrast, the second is rather like a small village, 日常生活 there is much like that of a "cell", but there are also some duties for the community.靠近中心of the settlement 是中心教堂 called "kyriako" (that could be translated "for the Sunday") where the whole brotherhood meets on Sundays and religious celebrations。通常还有an administration house,一个图书馆，storehouses and a guesthouse.

位于圣山的20座修道院中，17座属于希腊正教，其他3座属于其他东正教国家: the Chelandariou 修道院属于塞尔维亚，Zografou修道院属于保加利亚， Aghiou Panteleimonos 修道院属于俄罗斯。 Among the 12 cloisters, two are Romanian, the coenobitic "Skiti Timiou Prodromou" (which belongs to the Monastery Meghistis Lavras) and the idiorythmic "Skiti Aghiou Dimitriou tou Lakkou", also called "Lakkoskiti" (which belongs to the Aghiou Pavlou Monastery) and another one is Bulgarian, "Skiti Vogoroditsa" (which belongs to the Aghiou Panteleimonos Monastery).

这些修道院的建筑结构和coenobitic cloisters consists of a cluster of sequential high buildings, which enclose an inner courtyard. These buildings were also a defensive shield and give the monasteries of Athos peninsula their characteristic castle-like appearance. There are also towers with embrasures. The portal is usually tunnel-shaped for defence purposes, and is closed by heavy iron-sheeted wooden gates. Outside and near 主入口, there is usually a roomy kiosk with a great view. Near the centre of the paved interior courtyard 是修道院最重要的部分，the central church that is called "katholikon", and opposite, to the west, there is the refectory, called "trapeza". 其他基础部分 of a monastery are the Assembly room 和administration offices, the guesthouse, the monks' quarters, the library, the sacristy. In front of the west entrance of the main church, there exists "Fiali", an ornate marble washstand containing holy water. Within the courtyard, there is a fountain with fresh water. Little chapels are interspersed at various points of the monastery.

The "katholikon" of圣山 is a cross-shaped building, which, besides the niche of the sanctum, possesses two additional wide niches to the north and south for the choristers. Four pillars support the high central dome. To the west side of the church, between the narthex and the outer peristyle, another room has been added, called "liti", where the "liti" service is performed.

Each monastery or cloister has a small harbour so as to receive supplies by sea. It is called "arsanas" (actually coming from the latin word "arsenal") and is often fortified by a strong, high tower.

Inside the churches, icon-stands, sacristies and libraries of the monasteries and cloisters, relics and treasures of inestimable value are kept, of devotional, artistic, historical or national importance and for the pilgrims most of them are difficult to access for security purposes.

Upon your arrival at a monastery, you may ask the guest-master if and when you may see and genuflect the relics and miraculous icons and if you may receive a kind of guided tour and information about the history of the monastery. Of course, when you pass from Karies, do not omit to visit the old church of "Protaton" with its exceptional murals and to genuflect the miraculous holy icon of Virgin Mary, called "Axion Esti", which is the household icon of the patron saint of the Holy Mountain.

In modern times, the Mount Athos monasteries have repeatedly been struck by wildfires, e.g. in August 1990, and in March 2004, fire gutted a large section of the Serbian monastary, Hilandar. Due to the secluded locations of the monasteries, often atop small hills, as well as the unavailability of suitable fire fighting gear, the damages inflicted by these fires are often considerable.

2004年9月12日，Greek Orthodox Patriarch of Alexandria, Peter VII, was killed, together with 16 others, in a helicopter crash in 爱琴海 off 半岛。The Patriarch was heading to 圣山。

[编辑] 语言

所有希腊修道院通用希腊语，但有些修道院使用其他语言，St Panteleimonos用俄语 (35 monks), in Iviron 格鲁吉亚语 (53 monks), in Hilandar 塞尔维亚语 (46), in Zographou 保加利亚语 (15), and in the sketae of Prodromos and Lacu 罗马尼亚语 (64)。今天，许多希腊修士能说英语。

[编辑] 邮票

1915 - 1916冬季盟军考虑占领圣山。In anticipation of this they prepared a set of stamps which were intended for issue on 25 January 1916 for the use of the Governing body of the Monastic Republic.

这些邮票were produced in sheets of 12, (3 rows of 4), on board the aircraft carrier HMS Ark Royal. Six values were produced, ranging up to one shilling, and all were printed in black but on various different paper types.

这些邮票的设计 consisted of a square border with the name MOUNT ATHOS at the bottom in English, the left in Russian and on the right in Greek. At the top was inscribed THEOCRACY. The denomination appeared at each corner with the English in the lower corners, Greek in the top left and Russian in the top right. The inner section showed a double headed Byzantine eagle with the effigy of the Madonna and child in an oval on its breast.

这些邮票 have no official status but fall into the category of prepared for use but not issued.

interest arise 这些邮票有2点:

• 是唯一 issue to bear the currency and alphabets of 3种不同语言。
• They are the only issue to be produced on a warship in a time of war.

[编辑] 艺术宝藏

The Athonian 修道院 possess huge deposits of invaluable medieval 艺术宝藏, including icons, liturgical vestments and objects (crosses, chalices), codices and other Christian texts, imperial chrysobulls, holy relics etc. Until recently no organized study and archiving had been carried out, but lately a 欧盟-funded effort to catalogue, protect and restore them is under way.

[编辑] 文献

• The 6,000 Beards of 圣山 ISBN 0-85955-251-9 by Ralph H. Brewster.半岛指南, first published in 1935, detailing the landscape, monasteries, skites, and the life of the inhabitants, including customs and more not usually discussed.
• 圣山 ISBN 960-213-075-X by Sotiris Kadas. An illustrated guide to the monasteries and their history (Athens 1998). With many illustrations of 拜占庭艺术宝藏on 圣山.
• Athos 圣山 by Sydney Loch. Published 1957 & 1971 (Librairie Molho, Thessaloniki). Loch spent most of his life in Byzantine tower at Ouranopolis, close to Athos, and describes his numerous visits to 圣山. A fascinating travelogue. The famous Molho Bookstore in Thessaloniki may have a few copies left.
• Dare to be Free ISBN 0330106295 by Walter Babington Thomas. Offers insights into the lives of the monks of Mt Athos during WWII, from the point of view of an escaped POW who spent a year on the peninsula evading capture.
• Blue Guide:希腊 (ISBN 0393303721), pp. 600-03. Offers history and tourist information.

[编辑] 20个自治修道院

1. Megísti Lávra (Μεγίστη Λαύρα)
2. Vatopédi (Βατοπέδι)
3. Iviron (Ιβήρων)
4. Chilandariou (Χιλανδαρίου, Хиландар - Serbian)
5. Dionysiou (Διονυσίου)
6. Koutloumousiou (Κουτλουμούσι)
7. Pandokratoros (Παντοκράτορος)
8. Xiropotamou (Ξηροποτάμου)
9. Zografou (Ζωγράφου, Зограф - Bulgarian)
10. Dochiariou (Δοχειάρι)
11. Karakalou (Καρακάλλου)
12. Filotheou (Φιλοθέου)
13. Simonos Petra (Σίμωνος Πέτρα or Σιμωνόπετρα)
14. Agiou Pavlou (Αγίου Παύλου)
15. Stavronikita (Σταυρονικήτα)
16. Ksenofondos (Ξενοφώντος)
17. Osiou Grigoriou (Οσίου Γρηγορίου)
18. Esfigmenou (Εσφιγμένου)
19. Agiou Panteleimonos (Αγίου Παντελεήμονος or Ρωσικό)
20. Konstamonitou (Κωνσταμονίτου)

[编辑] 外部聯結

• Walk in Mount Athos -走入聖山的官方網頁
• Mount Athos: The Holy Mountain 關於聖山的歷史、文化、地理和參觀資訊
• 美特拉修道院Meteora希臘的天空之城

• Welcome to Mount Athos - The main web pages about Mount Athos.
• The Official Web Server of Mount Athos
• The Holy Mount Athos - Informations about the Theocratic Monk's Republic.
• Mount Athos in Chalkidiki
• Map of the Mount Athos
• The Friends of Mount Athos
• Greece Travel: Mount Athos
• Open Directory Project: Athos - Links about the monastic republic.
• Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople - The spiritual head of the monkastic republic.